Saturday 31 December 2016

Muzhakunnu - A Short Sketch

Muzhakunnu is located in Iritty taluk, south east of Iritty town. This was the original capital of Kottayam Rajas. In this post, topics to be covered will be -

1. Mridangasailesvari Temple
2. Kumaradhara
3. Pindali Kalari
4. Some recent but interesting events related to the temple. 
5. Harishchandra Kotta 
6. Puralimala Muthappan

1. MRIDANGASAILESVARI TEMPLE

Lord Parashurama had established 108 Durga temples across Keralam. Mridangasailesvari temple is one of them. It lay at Muzhakunnu on mountain named Puralimala.

It must be noted that Muzhakunnu have another name of Mridangasailam. The word Mridangasailam is derived from Mridangam (musical drum) and Sailam (moutain). Legend says that Durga Devi descended on to this mountain from sky in the form of a Mridangam. Parashurama identified this divine presence of Durga here and hence consecrated a temple for her. 

A similar legend also is there about how the name Muzhakunnu came into being. Muzhakunnu is condensed form of Muzhangiya Kunnu. This name is a combination of Muzhakkam (Great Sound) and Kunnu (Hill). Thus the name mean the Hill of Great Sound. Great sound here refers to the sound of divine music which accompanied arrival of Durga Devi on this mountain. 

Exact form of Shakti here is subject of dispute. Some argue that it is true Durga whereas some others claim it to be Shree Porkali or Chandika Devi. Another view is that it is Durga in the form of Shree Porkali. Porkali is the combination of Por (Battle) and Kali (Fury).

Yet it is considered that Mridangasailesvari is the combination of Shakti in the forms of Sarasvati, Lakshmi and Kaali. 

Note that Shree Porkali is the tutelary deity of Kottayam royal lineage. But original family shrine of Kottayam Rajas dedicated to Shree Porkali is at Manathana. This temple was destroyed during storm during one monsoon. Only ruins are there at present. It is hoped that it will be rebuilt. 

But what is beyond dispute is that Kottayam Rajas had a close connection with this temple. Originally capital of Kottayam Rajas was at Muzhakunnu close to this temple. Once they had a large fortified palaces around the temple. But none of them survive today. 

One story is that origin of southern, western and eastern branches of royal lineage of Kottayam had to do with this temple. It is believed that Padinjare Kovilagam, Kizhakke Kovilagam and Tekke Kovilagam - western, eastern and southern palaces respectively - of Puranattukara Swarupam or Kottayam royal stock originally were based on west, east and south of this temple and it was due to the direction with respect to temple that their names originated.

Puranattukara Swarupam is the Uralar (trustee) of this temple. 

To ensure victory, before all major battles, Pazhassi Raja worshipped Shree Porkali in her ferocious manifestation. He did this at the secret cellar in the palace nearby. He always prayed to the idol of Goddess at the temple before he set off to battlefield. 

To the west of temple lay remains of what was once a cave temple. Kottayam Rajas conducted prayers here before they went into field of war. 

Kottayam Thamburan also known as Kathakali Thamburan, greatest exponent of Kathakali wrote his Attakathas in this temple in front of idol of Goddess. It is said that he once found it difficult to develop female form in Kathakali. He prayed to in front of Devi and Goddess who was pleased with his prayer appeared in middle of temple tank and showed him what is now female forms in Kathakali.

It is believed (and experience also justify it) that Mridangasailesvari showers blessings upon and fulfill wishes of those who come to pray to her. 

2. KUMARADHARA

Close to the temple is a spot named Kumaradhara or Gundhika. There are no shrines here. Those who come to worship here also pray at Kumaradhara. Please read the post "Imbecile Turned Sage" for more details.

3. PINDALI KALARI

Adjacent to the temple is Pindali Kalari. It is one of the sixty four Kalaris established by Lord Parashurama. It is believed that temple of Mridangasailesvari would be prosperous only if male members of Puranattukara Swarupam learn combat from Pindali KalariNambeesan of Pindali lineage are the hereditary instructors or Gurukkal or this Kalari. Ceremony of coronation for Kottayam Raja was considered complete only if would be Raja were to come to the Kalari and receive ceremonial sword from the Gurukkal of the Kalari. 

Kalari has two parts - one was reserved for training of princes, other one, an outer Kalari for training rest of the pupils. Princely Kalari is today preserved as a sacred monument without any combat schooling. But outer Kalari is still active and imparts combat training for 34 pupils.

Marthanda Varma, the founder of kingdom of Travancore came to Muzhakunnu and got training in combat from Pindali Kalari

4. SOME RECENT BUT INTERESTING EVENTS RELATED TO THE TEMPLE

Panchaloha idol of Devi is three feet high and extremely beautiful as well as costly and worth 1.5 crore rupees. It was stolen thrice but thrice it idol returned to original position in ways so unusual that it can be deemed nothing short of miraculous. There is reason to believe the local folklore that anyone who steals the idol will return it to where it rightfully belongs - the events which give credence to the belief is as follows -

In late 20th century, the temple had to be shut down due to acute financial problems. Hereditary trustees, the Kottayam Rajas had become impoverished and hence could not pay for maintenance of the temple. After that local people attempted to run the temple but they too faced same fiscal problems. It was during this time that repeated theft of the idol occurred.

First time idol was stolen, the thief once he reached the western part of the temple complex suddenly lost his sense of what to do. Weight of idol started to increase and he felt terrible urge to relieve himself and extreme physical discomfort. Until dawn he remained there unable to do think or do anything. He then left the idol at the western end of the temple complex and ran away.

Second time the idol was stolen, it resurfaced at a roadside in Palakkad District on 42nd day after theft. Attached to it was a letter which said - "This idol belongs to Muzhakunnu temple. Please return it to its original position." 

Third time stolen idol was recovered from a lodge in Kalpetta in Wynad. Thief had abandoned it and wrote asking that idol be returned to where it truly belongs. 

All three thieves were later caught and they all told their interrogators that they felt strange feeling of being helpless and complete loss of mental and physical equilibrium along with inexplicable physical distress after they stole the idol.  

Once an astrological consultation was done by all concerned about the temple - which then was not in a prosperous state and struggled even to conduct daily ritual. Astrological finding was that if the lost temple tank (it had fallen into ruins and was filled up by earth due to neglect) was re-excavated and renovated, there will be heavy rush of devotees even from far off lands and lost glory of the temple will return. 

A year ago, this renovation was completed. It was at the same time that former Director General of Police Alexander Jacob made a talk about this temple and power of Mridangasailesvari. And this talk became viral through Whatsapp - what followed was a miracle. Tens of thousands started to go to Mridangasailesvari temple to seek Her blessing - this was unprecedented. It seems the astrological forecast was fulfilled. 

A statue of Pazhassi Raja has been established at the northern part of the temple.  

5. HARISHCHANDRA KOTTA

Ruins of this fort can be seen adjacent to the temple. A small reservoir and a heap of granite boulders is all that remains today. See my Founding Fathers post for further details.

6. PURALIMALA MUTHAPPAN

Puralimala Muthappan shrine is also close to Mridangasailesvari temple - separated by only 2-3 kilometers. It is believed to be one of the earliest Muthappan shrines.